Swatching in the round on size 17 needles did indeed yield a fabric that was "just right."
I may go down a needle size or two for the collar, saddles, and cuffs. They will be knit sideways and simultaneously connected to live stitches via k2togs. Using smaller needles will allow these edgings more room to "breathe" between rows. The edging is garter stitch on either side of a twisted slipped stitch. Sideways garter stitch is as stretchy as ribbing, so I won't need to add shaping with decreases even though the collar is fairly wide.
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