You Can Knit That by Amy Herzog, photography by Karen Pearson, pub. Abrams, 2016 Amy Herzog has done it again---written a book that speaks to beginning and experienced sweater knitters, topped off by a couple dozen wonderful patterns. Her signature design is a plain sweater with set-in sleeves, knit in pieces. There may be a touch of colorwork here or there, or a sweet bit of lace, or a line of texture or cabling. But her genius is in the fit, and it's such genius that it wants to be displayed rather than hidden by excessive adornment. In this book she stretches out, displaying that same genius in raglans, circular yokes, drop shoulders, and integrated sleeves. She reveals that the secrets to great fit aren't just in the measurements but also in the yarn. For instance, anyone who subscribes to the stereotype of drop-shouldered sweaters as boxy and bulky would be surprised by the Cushy Pullover (right). Made with a baby alpaca/merino blend, its fabric has "enough movement and 'crushability' to comfortably lie under the arms." Its modern silhouette feature slimmer sleeves. And though the body is oversized and unshaped, the sides are ribbed to provide a little bit of cling. But I'm getting ahead of myself. The reason for all these construction types is to explain in loving detail the procedure for knitting any kind of sweater. The book's mission, as evidenced by its title, is to demonstrate the accessibility of knitting beautiful, comfortable garments. The Introduction, written in Amy's amiable prose, explains (among other things) that these sweaters in this book are "lower stakes, fit-wise, than the classic tailored pullover." Chapters 1 - 3 are even lower stakes than the patterns, encouraging practice with swatches, with pencil and paper, and with tape measure and sweaters you actually own. These chapters are named "Before the Knitting," "During the Knitting," and "After the Knitting." They cover the following:
Herzog's wealth of experience and unique perspective almost guarantee that even if you have heard a particular pointer, you have not heard it put exactly that way. I especially appreciated the sections on fabric, ease, and trim. Next come the patterns. Divided by construction, they include one "mini" project for each category. Mostly sized for toddlers through 10-year-olds, these projects are intended to familiarize the knitter with new ideas without a huge investment in yarn or time. But they're also darned cute! Most pattern books have blurbs introducing the pattern. These are usually "romance copy," paragraphs sketching the inspiration for an item, or suggesting where and how it might be worn. This is how Amy romances us on the Entangled Raglan (orange sweater in the upper right corner of the cover): One of the most exciting things about the raglan construction, from a designer's perspective, is that the raglan lines offer a beautiful chance to show off stitch patterning. In this cardigan, I combined a smooth, lovely wool with beautiful cables that I used to adorn the seams of the garment. Those seams are important for stability (cables are heavy!), as are the buttons at the top of the cardigan. As you knit, make sure your neck edge is strong, since much of the weight of the sweater is supported by it. You'll be rewarded by a stunning garment that's also comfortable to wear. That's a lot of information for what's often the "fluff" section of the pattern! Occasional "Bonus Lessons" appear in sidebars throughout the book, ensuring that Amy is able to pack in as much content as possible. Whew! But so we don't have to wade through all the info every time we start a new project, Amy's included a two-page "super-quick guide to super-wearable sweaters" near the back of the book. She thinks of everything! Karen Pearson's photography is joyful and the styling by Astrid Scannell-Long is creative but not distracting. I'm looking forward to knitting the Heublein Pullover---I'll keep you posted on how it turns out. I'm a little concerned because it's worn by my favorite model and I think that may be swaying my decision. But it fills a gap in my wardrobe and I'd like to test the difference Amy says seams will make in a raglan. I recommend this book for any and all knitters. Reading it is like sitting down for a meal with a good friend who knows a lot about the things you love. And the patterns are the icing on the cake! Disclosure: The publisher sent Kangath a review copy of this book. Kangath was not otherwise compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in Kangath's reviews are her own.
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The Modern Natural Dyer by Kristine Vejar, photography by Sara Remington, pub. STC Craft, 2015. This very thoughtful guide to natural dyeing captured my heart and my imagination. It explores various dyestuffs and encourages experimentation. It includes knitting and sewing projects as well as ready-made items. And it presents everything in an easy-to-use format without excessive page turning and cross-referencing. The author is Kristine Vejar, of A Verb for Keeping Warm. She has worked in Washington, D.C.'s Textile Museum and traveled to India on a Fulbright to study natural dyeing. The first chapter includes a glorious gallery of natural dyestuffs in various forms and used on various materials. A short paragraph describes each one, what it looks like and the range of colors it produces. Sara Remington's photography is sumptuous, and Alessandra Mortola's choices, styling, and backgrounds all work together perfectly. The accompanying text is succinct yet informative, including tips on where to find plants and how to extract the dye. Then comes a brief overview on choosing fiber. It covers animal, silk, bast, seed, and fibers manufactured from natural materials. Chapter 3 is the heart of the book: Dyeing 101. The steps are outlined, as well as features of indoor and outdoor workspaces, recommended and optional tools, and the value of a dye journal (as well as what to record in yours). Then each step is detailed, with supplementary photos. Natural dyeing seems a little like making tea . . . in an extraordinarily large pot! The "Dyeing With Whole Dyestuffs" chapter includes several fetching projects including an adorable and useful sewing kit done with "eco printing." This involves rolling whole flowers up in the fabric before simmering. The "Dyeing with Extracts" chapter features a couple of shade cards (one for protein-based and one for cellulose-based fibers) and volume-to-weight conversion charts. There are also eight projects including the useful Wanderlust Bags and the beautiful Sandstone Shawl (below). Each project clearly states a list of skills you will learn as you work. The next chapter explores indigo dyeing, an intriguing process which is different from other natural dyes. The final chapter covers surface design: painting and resist dyeing. Resist dyeing interests me the most. It uses thread, yarn, and even wooden blocks to create color patterns. Kristine includes a resource list, bibliography, and glossary, as well as an index. But this inspiring book is full of interesting trivia and gorgeous photography, even if you never put dyestuff to pot. I recommend this book for lovers of color everywhere, as well as those interested in natural dyes. Disclosure: The publisher sent Kangath a review copy of this book. Kangath was not otherwise compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in Kangath's reviews are her own. Gertie's New Fashion Sketchbook by Gretchen Hirsch, illustrated by Sun Young Park, pub. STC Craft, 2015. This sketchbook's subtitle is "Indispensible Figure Templates for Body-Positive Design." In other words, if you want to create clothing that looks good on different body types, you can't do without this book. Gertie supplied the inspiration for this book, nine pages of introductory material, and a band of designer and sewing friends to try out Sun's drawings. These drawings are made up of several lines "nested" like the different sizes in sewing patterns. They are very pale so you can choose the size you want, trace just those lines, and when you photocopy the sketch the other lines will disappear! For instance, I have slender shoulders and generous hips. I can trace the narrowest lines on top and the broader ones at the hips. The only direction these croquis aren't customizable is height. Sun provided several poses, including two of my most wanted: rear view, and arm extended. Though no size is quite as large as the "plus-size" figure I usually use, the proportions are the main focus of this book. Of the introductory material, I especially enjoyed the "Styles That Have Endured" section which lists design components and sample ways to combine them. But the "Sketching Pointers" were useless to me. Terms like "softer edges" don't translate to my pencil. Luckily, the "Recommended Reading and Research" section had a couple promising books listed. I highly recommend this book for professional and amateur designers who aren't comfortable drawing their own models. Disclosure: The publisher sent Kangath a review copy of this book. Kangath was not otherwise compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in Kangath's reviews are her own. Knit Wear Love by Amy Herzog, photography by Karen Pearson, pub. STC Craft, 2015. I can't say enough good things about this book. Amy Herzog is one of my favorite knitting voices. I enjoy her non-judgmental word choices and straightforward message: we are all beautiful. That said, when I first saw this book I looked at the cover and wondered what the publisher was thinking. the sweaters weren't attractive to me, the styling seemed off, the camera angles were unflattering... The clouds cleared from my attitude when I opened the book and saw what it was. Of course it's not just a collection of patterns! That's not what Amy's about. She opens with a chapter on identifying your personal style. Proposing no fewer than eight categories, complete with descriptions of fiber, fabric, and color, she gives five exercises to help label your tastes. This is important because if we articulate what we like to wear, we are less likely to choose to knit something that attracts us for other reasons (for instance, the setting it's worn in). Chapter Two is a crash course in sweater choice and customization which will guide us through eight meta-patterns, each with three samples worked up in different styles and yarn weights. Each meta-pattern is written for twelve sizes from 30" to 54" bust. The patterns are brilliantly laid out in chart form, resulting in a surprising clarity, given that there are mix-and-match instructions for three radically different sweaters on the same page. It's like a cross between a knitting book and a Choose-Your-Own-Adventure Novel. The bolero below (in bulky weight yarn) is written with the worsted-weight Avant Garde Bolero and the fingering-weight Romantic Bolero. All three patterns are given in all three weights, with caveats about yarn suitability for special features such as puffed sleeves. They are only broken out by specific styles when necessary (as for the lower edge or the sleeves) otherwise they are written as one pattern. It works. Knitters can choose to use a different stitch patterns or yarn weights or even change the increase and decrease rates following Amy's instructions. It's liberating, and the possibilities are endless. I highly recommend this book for knitters who want to be able to customize their sweaters for fit or for style. Also for those who'd like their knitting to fit better (some important information about measuring gauge in Chapter Two), those who want to choose a sweater that flatters their body type, those who are hesitant to knit a sweater in pieces or have trouble with seaming, and those who just plain like Amy Herzog patterns. Disclosure: The publisher sent Kangath a review copy of this book. Kangath was not otherwise compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in Kangath's reviews are her own. Magpies, Homebodies, and Nomads by Cirilia Rose, photography by Jared Flood, pub. STC Craft, 2014. This a gem of a book contains 26 patterns, categorized by personality. Magpies collect shiny things, including small amounts of precious yarns. Homebodies quietly enjoy the comforts of home. And Nomads venture out into the world, seeking friendship and inspiration. Photographer Jared Flood portrays each personality in its own habitat. The Magpies flit along a wooded path, or wander on the beach. The Homebodies dwell amid potted plans and cooking utensils. And the Nomads take to the street. Each design is photographed from a number of different angles, with the care (and eye) of a fellow knitter. Sizing is fairly generous, with most sweaters sized to fit chests size 31 to 53, and one hat and a pair of slippers presented in 3 sizes. There's only one size for all the other accessories, which include a couple hats and a pair of mitts but are mostly scarves. Along with the patterns there are pages and pages of worthwhile information. Tips on color, styling, and yarn substitution. Advice on organization, packing, and shopping. Referrals to books and blogs outside the knitting circle. And many more useful tidbits given in Cirilia's good-natured, matter-of-fact tone. Even the pattern introductions can have hints of wisdom gleaned from Cirilia's experience with greats such as Norah Gaughan. The intro to the Tisane Tank talks about developing a design vocabulary and points out that Tisane is a fraternal twin to the Garance Camisole (both pictured below) from an earlier chapter. Much of Cirilia's work is not to my taste, but I absolutely adore her Isla Cardigan (cover photo and left), especially worn with the Marion Collar. The cardigan itself has several very sweet knitterly details such as slightly puffed sleeves, shoulder tabs, and a defined pleated ridge at the bustline. Reinterpreted from a thrift store find, it is a lovely piece on its own. But paired with the Marion Collar, it simultaneously evokes wilderness and elegance. If the cardigan is perfectly pleasing, the ensemble is thrilling. The collar is a knitted base worked in two extra soft yarns (lambswool and angora), with "lustrous, colorful, curly locks" pulled through afterwards using a crochet hook. Visit Weir Crafts or comb through Etsy to find the curly locks. Other designs which caught my eye are the Heima Slippers (above), the Coterie Cardigan, the Rainier Cowl, and the Raven Bag. The slippers look ultra-comfortable, and I love the way they are styled with tights that coordinate with the ribbon tie. The cardigan is a true double-breasted, military inspired piece. The cowl is a vegetarian take on fleece-lined suede. And who can resist a bag shaped like one of Odin's (or Poe's) iconic ravens? I also admire the Gezell Coat, shown at right. It solves the problem of pocket bulges by embracing them, incorporating them into its shape. And I love pockets. But I'm also developing a newfound affection for bobbles, which Gezell gratifies. The eyelets along the back seam make an interesting foil to the round buds at hem and cuffs. I was surprised, given the disparity of our tastes, at how similar Cirilia's thought processes are to mine. Her bibliography, including Teva Durham, Britt-Marie Christoffersson, and Maggie Righetti, looks very similar to my bookshelf. I recommend this charming book as a good read for any designer, knitter, shopper, or bricoleur (Cirilia's word). There are several references in addition to the bibliography which merit further exploration. And of course her designs may attract you on their own. This book stimulated and inspired me. Perhaps it will have the same effect on you! Disclosure: Kangath received a review copy of this book from the publisher. No other compensation was provided. The opinions expressed in all Kangath's reviews are her own. Made by Hand by Lena Corwin, photographs by Maria Alexandra Vettese and Stephanie Congdon Barnes, pub. STC Craft, 2013. For crafters (or would-be crafters) seeking to branch out from their usual medium, this book contains a treasure trove of projects. Most of them are simple, many of them are charming, and all are laid out clearly with carefully worded instructions. The projects included cover rotary printing, screen printing, machine sewing, hand sewing, knitting, crochet, tea dyeing, tie-dyeing, batik, marbling, appliqué, soap making, fabric painting, rag rugs (crocheted and braided), embroidery, fabric origami, brass and silk jewelry making, beading, candle making, weaving, stuffed toy making, and basketry coiling. That's a lot to pack into one book, but Corwin does a fabulous job orchestrating and unifying them. These adorable children's leggings are hand painted. The project's intro describes how the designer, Caitlin Mociun, sewed the original adult version. Lena suggests using premade leggings, and even recommends fabric content. The instructions describe how to make leg inserts to keep the fabric taut and prevent bleed-through, how to make guide-lines with water-soluble ink before painting, and how to practice strokes on an old T-shirt. Then come the instructions for painting the leggings and drying the paint, along with tips for washing out some of the pigment if the color is too bright or saturated. Fabric origami is a thrilling idea and full of possibilities. I am inspired to try not only these butterflies, but several other origami creatures. These instructions begin with recommendations for the size of your work space and continue with tips on how to obtain a perfect square. Starting with a light coat of spray starch, ironing each fold, and finishing the butterfly with a few stitches with needle and thread, the steps are clearly laid out with accompanying photographs. When I dyed curtains for my study, I signed up for the Dharma Trading Company mailing list. Their variety of silk scarves and other items as well as colors of fabric paint is eye-boggling. To make a marbled handkerchief like the one at left, the steps are simple (though an extra pair of hands is helpful for larger scarves). This would make a wonderful party project for adults or teenagers.
Disclosure: Kangath received a review copy of this book from the publisher. No other compensation was provided. The opinions expressed in all Kangath's reviews are her own. The Exquisite Book of Paper Flowers: A Guide to Making Unbelievably Realistic Paper Blooms by Livia Cetti, photographs by Addie Juell, pub. Stewart, Tabori and Chang (STC Craft), 2014. When I was trying to review this book, my daughter kept stealing it away every time I put it down. Now she's pestering me to take her to buy supplies to make flowers. They're mostly inexpensive (like tissue paper and floral tape) and tools we can use for other crafts (like a glue gun and fringing shears), so I don't mind. Besides, I love these flowers as much as she does! Livia's calm, supportive tone carries from the introduction through the instructions as she explains how to create each bloom. For the delicate muscari, tissue paper is wrapped around a pencil to form the blossoms. Other flowers have pointed or shaggy petals. The Matilija poppy (below, center photo) is over a foot in diameter. I don't have room to feature all the lovely creations here. The book's image gallery has a few more, but still no orchids or lilies, cactus flowers or foxgloves, fritillaria or filler fluff. There are instructions for all these in the book, using surprisingly simple techniques. Part 1 covers the basics of flower making: tools, materials, and techniques. After an overview of paper types and an explanation of grain, this section includes photo tutorials of techniques such as dip-dyeing, tie-dyeing, painting, and taping. Part 2 gives step-by-step instructions for making 26 different flowers, and Part 3 contains 18 project ideas for mobiles, head wreaths, cake decorations, and other arrangements to wear or display. Throughout, Livia directs us toward achieving a natural look, which usually coincides with the least fussy method. Addie Juell's photography is perfect. Using backdrops of paper (what else?), she captures the essence of each individual species. The projects are mostly easy, but some require practice and others require stamina. This gorgeous book is a wonderful resource for anyone who likes to smarten gifts, cakes, houses, hair, or life in general with pretty little touches. Disclosure: Stewart, Tabori & Chang sent Kangath a free copy of this book for review. Kangath was not compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in the review are solely the blog author's. Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary by Wendy Bernard, photography by Thayer Allyson Gowdy, pub. Stewart, Tabori and Chang (STC Craft), 2014. I love stitch dictionaries. I read them like novels. My husband often looks up after I sigh, gasp, or even giggle, wondering what I'm reading. I lift my chin, trying not to look embarrassed, and reveal my weakness---yes, I am reading an encyclopedic list of stitch patterns. And I don't just look at the beautiful swatch photos, I read the pattern to discover what tricks are employed in the lace, the cable, the ruffle, the pleat. But the swatch photos are indeed beautiful. Stitches stand out, lace patterns are clearly visible, texture is true. I had the good fortune to see a digital copy of a late draft of this book and witness the superior care that went into its editing---comments calling for increased detail in a photo or correction of a swatch's shadow placement were not uncommon. This is an example of the kind of attention that makes STC Craft books outshine others in their category. What makes this dictionary special is that each stitch pattern comes with multiple sets of instructions. Directions are given for knitting flat and in the round, and patterns that are asymmetrical along the horizontal axis have directions for knitting top-down and bottom-up. Each pattern is presented with an accompanying swatch photo and, if applicable, a chart or charts. The format is extremely readable and it's easy to associate the photo with the instructions. Although this is a stitch dictionary, we are treated to one complete design in each chapter plus an entire section of the appendix on designing from scratch. Garments are given in a generous range of sizes, but the hat and sock patterns do not include sizes I could wear. That's okay, since I can easily substitute stitch patterns that will result in sizes to fit my big head and small feet. If I run into any trouble with this, the appendix will help. The swatches are color coded in tonal families, delineating each chapter without making them look monotonous. The chapters are knits and purls; ribs; textured, slipped, and fancy stitches; yarnovers and eyelets; cables; lace; color work; hems and edgings; and projects. Little things, like the charting symbols that decorate the spine and the page footers, help make this book exceptional. The coated spiral binding allows the open book to lie flat without presenting a danger to knitting fingers. Books such as the Barbara Walker Treasuries contain hundreds more patterns but often have ancient black and white photos. Up, Down, All-Around is a wonderful supplement to these, enabling us to not only work the patterns in different directions, but (with a little imagination) to mentally enhance the dated photos. I recommend this dictionary for folks interested in the mechanics of transformation as well as knitters looking to personalize (or improvise!) a garment or accessory. Disclosure: Stewart, Tabori & Chang sent Kangath a free copy of this book for review. Kangath was not compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in the review are solely the blog author's. The Knitted Slipper Book by Katie Startzman, photography by Mika Nakanishi, pub. Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013 My daughter is adorable. She's pretty (everyone says so), charming, and outgoing---but she's also smart as a whip, full of helpful information, new ideas, and a great sense of humor. This book is like my daughter. Okay, maybe it doesn't bake awesome bat-shaped chocolate chip cookies or look especially good in her purple paisley dress. But in addition to being well laid out, with excellent photography and sweet finishing touches (like the little running stitches bordering occasional photos and headers), it's packed with, well, helpful information, new ideas, and a great sense of humor. Before even getting to the projects, Katie guides us through choosing a style, choosing yarn, gauge for felting, sizing and fit, and felting itself. If you're an experienced knitter, you might want to skip this part, but don't miss the sections on soling (four methods), lining, and slipper care and repair. After all this information come the thirty delightful projects. But oh, ho! There is more information sprinkled throughout! Before and after photos of felted slippers, wonderful process photos of the slippers being embellished, an incredibly cute method of making mini pom-poms, beading! thrums! needle felting! cardboard liners! curled pointy toes!!! The outrageous red cuffs on the Recycled Fringe Slippers are made from an unraveled thrift-store sweater. I will not say they are my favorite slippers in the book, because I simply refuse to choose. Disclosure: Stewart, Tabori & Chang sent Kangath a free copy of The Knitted Slipper Book for review. Kangath was not compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in the review are the blog author's and are not necessarily the opinions of Stewart, Tabori & Chang or Katie Startzman. More Modern Top-Down Knitting by Kristina McGowan, photography by Anna Williams, pub. Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2013. In this book, McGowan uses all 12 of Barbara Walker's templates from Knitting from the Top: the raglan pullover, the raglan cardigan, the seamless cape, the seamless skirt, the reversible pants, the sleeveless sweater, the seamless set-in sleeves, the seamless saddle shoulders, the kimono sleeves, the square set sleeves, the dropped shoulder ski sweater, and the classic cap (hat). She designed two garments in each category, which still doesn't exhaust the possibilities offered by Walker (who offers templates for, among other things, 11 types of pants). This structure provided McGowan with personal design challenges which she met headlong with a sense of fun and a taste for embellishment. The cover design, fremont skirt, was named for Grace Kelly's character in Hitchcock's Rear Window. The skirt itself is a fairly straightforward linen stitch garment, but the finishing makes this piece stand out. Elastic cord is crocheted into the cast-on edge in place of an elastic waistband. Stretch lace is sewn to the bottom hem. And the branch motif which inspired the design is embroidered on the front (and back) of the skirt. I think embroidering sequins on someone's seat is asking for trouble, and I winced at the uncharacteristic inexactitude of some of the instructions (such as "Enlarge Embroidery Template to desired size," and the complete lack of mention that half of them need to be vertically flipped), but I appreciate the tricks McGowan uses to get the branches on the skirt and will use them if I ever have the occasion. My daughter walked into the room while I was writing this review and admired the fremont skirt and these shorts. I love the idea of knitted shorts, but it bothers me slightly that no rear view is given either for the shorts or for the longer "yoga-style" pants. Walker says, "There is not so much difference between the back and front of the body that a flexible knitted fabric can't adjust to it." Well, maybe Walker (and these models) are built differently, but on my body there is actually more difference between the back and front of my bottom half than my top half. Just as I can't imagine a busty woman wearing a fitted top backwards, I can't imagine reversible pants ever being comfortable on me. There are a few appealing designs in this collection, but mostly appealing techniques. There's something in practically every piece from intriguing stitch patterns (from Walker's Treasuries) to intricate duplicate stitch charts spanning entire fronts of sweaters, suede patches, and of course embroidery. And I enjoy having a more colorful (albeit much less thorough) version of Walker's book. Most patterns are given in 5 or 6 sizes (XS to 2- or 3-XL), but the hats are given in a single size only (22", which won't fit me, even in that holly berry bonnet---I've tried!). They could easily be adapted, but I don't think the knitter should be the one to do that work. The photography by Anna Williams really stands out. Every stitch is visible, models are relaxed and glowing, styling (by Pamela Duncan Silver) is understated yet lovely. Before you buy this book, flip through it or look at the designs online and see whether any of them excite you. Though many of McGowan's designs in this book are not to my taste, I do appreciate the color photos and clear pattern-writing (as opposed to line drawings and chatty prose). If you're not interested knitting any of the specific designs, think about whether it might be a good idea to purchase the book for the techniques and template realizations. Disclosure: Stewart, Tabori & Chang sent Kangath a free copy of More Modern Top-Down Knitting for review. Kangath was not compensated for the preceding review. All opinions expressed in the review are the blog author's and are not necessarily the opinions of Stewart, Tabori & Chang or Kristina McGowan. |
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